Cuff attachment and method of making same



March 19, 1957 P. c. MAcRlDEs ,E1-AL 2,785,411

CUFF ATTACHMENT AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed June 9; 1954 FIG. I F|G 2 4 fx1-FE I '4 4 ir/IT I/ 2 i 17 i se fla i I I 5 I 5 4 :I I

I I L* /*w ALBERT E. WAGARI PHILIP C. MACRIDES ATTORNEY United States APatent: O

. CUFF ATTACHMENT AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Philip C. Macrides, Troy, and Albert E. Wagar, Albany, N. Y., assgnors to Cluett, Peabody & Co., Inc., Troy, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application June 9, 1954, Serial No. 435,427

2 Claims. (Cl. IL- 124) This invention relates to the attachment of a cuff to the end of a shirt sleeve, and particularly cuffs of the type which are worn with links in the manner of French cuffs.

An object of the invention is to provide an improved cuff for attachment to a shirt sleeve, which may be of the type usually worn with cuff links; which may have the general appearance of a folded back or French type of cuff; which will be permanently attached to the sleeve in .the manner in which it is to be worn; which employs a minimum of material and requires a minimum number of manufacturing operations; which may have an outer free edge exten-ding upwardly 'beyond the cuff attaching seam, and which will be relatively simple, practical, pleasing 4in appearance and inexpensive.

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved method of making cuffs :and :attaching them to the free end of a sleeve, which requires a minimum of manufacturing operations; which may be performed Arapidly and easily even by the average sewing machine operators; which requires' only the use of equipment usually found in garment manufacturing plants; and by the use of which all of the manufacturing operations on the 4cuff may be completed prior to the final act of attaching the cuff 'to the sleeve end.

Other objects and advantages will be apparent from the following description of some embodiments of the invention, and the novel features will 'be particularly pointe-d out hereinafter .in connection with the appended claims.

ln the accompanying drawing:

Fig. l is an elevation of one end of a shirt sleeve having attached thereto a cuff constructed in accordance with `this invention, `and lby the practice of the improved method;

Fig. 2 is `an elevation of the sleeve and of the attached cuff similar to that in Fig. l, except that the cuff is held out llat instead of being .polled as in Fig. l;

Fig. 3 is a sectional elevation *through a part of the seam, the section being taken approximately along the line 3-3 of 2;

Fig. 4 is another sectional elevation through the cul, the section `being taken approximately along the line 4-4 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 5 is a sectional elevation of another part of the cuff at the button hole, the section being taken .approximately along the line of Fig. 2;

Fig. 6 is a plan of the superposed lining and face layers of fabric used in forming the cuif after the superposed layers have had their marginal strip portions turned inwardly preparatory `to folding the superposed layers of fabric into a cuff;

Fig. 7 is a perspective of a culi' formed in accordance with the invention ready for attachment to the end of a sleeve;

`Figs. 8 to ll inclusive are diag-rams illustrating the steps of tunning in the marginal edge portions of the superposed fabric layers in order :to illustrate the sequence of turning steps;

Fig, l2 is a sectional elevation through a guide which is 'ice '2 employed in the sewing machine that forms Ithe button hole and illustrates a step .in the foldingl of lthe cuff; and

Fig. 13 is .a partial elevation of the sleeve .and the attached cuff similar to that in Fig. 2 illustrating :another embodiment of the invention.

In the illustrated embodiments of the invention, Ithe improved cuff 1 is shown as attached to the free end of a sleeve 2 of any suitable construction. The sleeve has the usual slitted sleeve closure 3.

IReferring next -to Figs. 6 to ll, two superposed layers of fabric, 4 and 5, approximately coextensive in :area are arranged as shown in Fig. 6. The layer 4 is the fabric which is to form the face of Ithe cuif, and the layer 5 is the interlining of the culi. The upper corners of the superposed fabric layers are turned down inwardly upon the lining 5 along :a diagonal line A-A see Fig. 8, into the position shown in Fig. 9. Preferably `the lining layer has .its upper corners cut oif as at 6 which is disposed approximately along the line A-A so that when the corner of the face layer is turned inwardly upon the lining layer,` the turned edge 7 of the face lining will .lie along the diagonal line 6. The upper and lower end marginal strip areas S and 9 respectively are next turned inwardly upon the lining layer 5 as shown in Figs. 6 and l0, the line Iof turning being approximately along the line B--B of Fig. 9 so that the marginal upper strip 8 and the lower .marginal strip 9 will extend toward each other upon the exposed face of the lining layer 5. The side marginal strip .areas of #the :superpose-d layers are then folded inwardly upon the exposed face of the lining layer S about Ithe line C-C of Fig. l0 so that the side strip marginal yareas 10 and 1l will extend toward each other and lie against the exposed face of the lining layer 5. Then, by reason of -this turning inwardly of the marginal strip of the superposed layers', the face layers will be uppermost and exposed along the marginal strip areas,

These superposed layers with their turned marginal strips are then folded along the transverse or horizontal li-ne D-D of Fig. 6 to form two superpose-d arms as shown in Fig. 7. The line of fold of the superposed arms is indicated at 12 in Fig. 7. In this line of fold indicated, the line D-D is adjacent to a median, transverse line through the superposed layers and when both of the superposed arms are to have the same length from the line of fold, then the line D-D would be coincident with .the median, transverse line in this ytype of cuff; however it is usually preferable -to have the outer arm .of the cuff as attached tothe sleeve slightly longer from the fold line than the inner arm, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. When one arm of the superposed arms is longer from the fold li-ne than the other, the line of fold D-D would be slightly to one side of the median line and this would be slightly below the median line of Fig. 6. Button holes 13 and 14 are provided in the end portions of the cuff formed by the superposed arms and the stitching of the button holes serves to unite together all of the superposed plies of the `folded back arms as shown clearly in Fig. 5.`

The folding of the superposed layers along the line D-D is conveniently done by use of the form shown in Fig. l2, which has two abutments or guide faces 15 and 16 against which the upper and lower ends of the culf are placed as shown in Fig. 12. The guide face 15 is narrower than the guide face 16, and the lower end of the superposed fabric layers as shown in Fig. 6 is placed against the guide face 16 as shown in Fig. l2, then the upper end of the superposed fabric layers considered as in Fig. 6 is brought over on top of the lower half of the superposed fabric layers and the upper edge -abuts the guide face 15, also as shown in Fig. l2. While the fabric layers are held in this position or form in the sewing machine the button holes 13 and 14 are formed. These button holes serve to maintain the relationship between the marginal edges 'of the arms from the fold line i12, Lwhile `the cuf is Ybeing handled andattached 1to the sleeve. After the cuff is formed in this manner, the space between the two arms opposite from the fold line is then opened and the free end of thesleeve 2'isrinserted therebetween, with the faces of the sleeve end abutting and directly in contact with the turned back marginal strips 8, 9, 1t) and k11 of the superposed fabric layersrfor thefull width ofthe sleeve end.

`A line of stitching 17 is then applied to the cu and sleeve in the assembled relationship. This line of stitching 17 starts inwardly from the fold line 12 of the cuff at one end of one side edge of the cuff, extends away from the fold .line along that side edge until it approximately reaches thelimit of the shorter arm, then extends across the cuff for its full width approximately to the other side edge of the cuff, and then along the opposite side edge of the cuff stopping just short of the fold line 1 2. Thus, the cuit has only one line of stitching 1"/ to complete the cuff, and to hold the parts thereof in the assembled relationship and to attach the cuff to the sleeve end. The button holesl and 14, 0 1 course, also serve to Aattach together the two. arms of the cuff. The line ofstitching 17 'at each side edge of the cuff is placed rather closely to the edge of the cuff Vso that there will be no substantial separation `ofthe arms of thecuif at its side edges. The stitching 17 passes through the turned in marginal edges of the arms, as shown in Figs. 3 and 4.

In the embodiment illustrated in Fig. 13 the cuff at tachment stitching 17 begins inwardly from but closely adjacent to one side edge of the cuif and extends across the cult for approximately its full width and stopping just short of the opposite side edge of the cuff from where the stitching started.

`It will be noted from Fig. 2 and 6 that by turning in the superposed layers in forming the upper corners, the visible edges of the corner fold at the exposed parts of the longer arm of the cuff, are neat and clean, with the turned edges abutting like a miter joint so that there will be a minimum number of layers of fabric at the corners= with yno raw edges of the fabric to unravel. This presentsa neat appearance where the longer arm shows at theside-edges of the cud. By keeping the number of thicknesses of the fabric at a minimum at the upper corners, by this type of fold, the wear on the corners will be kept-to a minimum.

When theculf is worn as a barrel type cuff, :a button replaces one of the button holes on each cuff, as usual in barrel' `type cuifs.

`It is believed that the manner of assembling the cu-i and attaching it-to the sleeve end is simple and will be apparent from the foregoing description, and will not be repeated.

'v It will be understood that the various changes in the details and arrangement of parts, which have been herein described 'and lillustrated in order'to 'explain ythe nature of the invention, may be made by those skilled in the art within the principle and scope of the invention as e-xpressed in the appended claims.

We claim:

1. The method of forming a cuff `on the end of a sleeve which comprises'superposing face and lining-layers of fabric turning the marginal edges while superposed backwardly upon the lining layer, folding the superlayers with inturned marginal edges upon a common transverse line with .the lininglayerinnermost to provide two superposed arms connected at the `fold line, forming .button holes in the end portions ofthe superposed arms in order to hold the arms in the folded relatienV during later attachment of the cuff to a sleeve, thereinafter inserting the free end of the sleeve between the arms at the margin opposite from the fold line, stitching together the-supcrposed arms beginning adjacent one endof the'fold line running normal to the fold line-along that end'edge of the superposed arms, then across the marginal edge opposite from the fold line, then along the opposite end edge of the superposed arms to a point adjacent 'the vother vend of the fold line, the stitching across fthe marginal edge opposite from the fold line passing throughl thefree end of the sleeve and bothrarms to attachl the cuff to the sleeve end.

2. The method of forming a cut and attaching the same'to the end of 'a sleeve, which method includes the steps kin sequence of superposing approximately coextensive `and rectangular face and lining layers'of fabric face to face, turning a companionpair of the corners of said rectangular facelayer inwardly and backwardly upon the lining layer valong a diagonal corner line, thereinafter turning inwardly and backwardly upon the lining' layer the marginal'edges of said superposed layers including the edges adjoining Said corners sothat said latter edges lie in substantial abutment above the previously turned'corners, thereinafter folding the superposed layers with the lining layer innermostto provide two superposed arms connected at the fold line, forming buttonholes in the end portions of the superposed arms to couple-them, insertinglthe free end of a `sleeve between the coupled arms with the inturned marginal edges of the face layer abuttingthe opposite faces of the sleeve end at the margin opposite from the fold line for the full width of the sleeve end, .and stitching together the superposed arms and the sleeve end.

`References Cited in the-file of this patent UNITED STATES. PATENTS :9994569 vrLauer Aug. v1, ,19 1.l 1,763,688 Champion June 17, 1930 l22,482,671 Kennedy Sept.' 20, 1949 `2,537,160 JSaltsman'et al. Jan. 9, .1951 

